NANDAVARA OF BYGONE DAYS (A Brief History of Nandavar)

Just as there are aastikas who believe that God is the cause of all actions and events as well as peace and happiness, in our society we also come across naastikas who deny outright the very existence of God…While it is not prudent to abstain from putting forth one's best efforts even when one is endowed with an unflinching faith in God, it is also not wise to deny and reject His existence altogether, because of one's egoism… As a Sanskrit saying goes, those who argue that there is no God, will do well to believe in Him for their own good: "naasti chennaasti nohaanih asti chennaastikohatah", which means 'even if there be no God, there is no harm in believing in Him. If there be God and if one does not believe in Him and engages in unlawful actions, he cannot escape the harm that he is inflicting on himself.' Therefore, is not theism rather safer?Many opine that in the modern age of scientific advancement, it is far more beneficial to lead a life imbued with faith in God (The Higher Power) and Dharma (the moral and spiritual values).

A Sacred Spot in the Parasurama Kshetra

Nandavar, situated on the bank of the Netravati River, in Bantwal Taluk, at Dakshina Kannada, Karnataka, is a sacred spot in the Parasurama Kshetra. An abode of ancient temples, it is a center of attraction to the votaries of God and Dharma.

Grace of God at Nandavar

It is well-known that here at Nandavar the devout people, from the very ancient time, have believed temples as a spiritual and social center, and feel blessed by attending to all religious activities with great devotional fervor. The grace of God at Nandavar is like a shining lamp, a great power, never diminished or extinguished. May it shine forever as a religious, social and cultural center.

The Relics at Nandavar Silently Proclaim...

There is no palace today in Nandavar or the fort built by the king. But on visiting the temples in Nandavar and going round the place, one will find many relics, remnants and ruins which silently proclaim that once upon a time, everything existed in Nandavar and one gets stimulated for an enquiry. Coming to know that once upon a time Nandavar was a place known for its royal glory, one will be eager to know the history of the place.

Nandavar, a very ancient and renowned place, was for centuries, a historical center. The kings who ruled it in pomp and glory were many. But, as mentioned already, everything is in racks and ruin, and the remnants, a symbol of a lifeless memorial, stands as a mute witness to the past royal glory.

Nandavar - A Place of Historical Significance

Nandavar was well known as the capital of a state for several centuries. A place of historical significance, here exists, even to this day, the remnants of the ancient two-tired circular mud Fort, Sri Veerabhadra shrine, Sri Vinayaka-Shankarnarayana-Durgamba Temple, besides Sri Veera Maruti Temple, a temple dedicated to Sri Hanuman, popularly known here as the "Kote Hanumantha" (Hanuman of the fort). There are relics here indicating that there existed a palace of the Jain king known as "Bangarasa" and two Jain Basadis.

There are even literary references to them. Here, a person known as Keshava Mishra had authored a Sanskrit treatise entitled: "Tarkaparibhasha", and a Jain poet, Dharaniga, had written a book in Kannada, in glorification of the Thirthankara (an incarnation of Mahaveera, in Jainism). The ancient monuments, which existed here, were worm out and ruined due to the ravages of time. But recently, thanks to the collective social initiative of the local people, coupled with their religious faith and devotion to God, the neglected ancient temples of Sri Siddhi Vinayaka, Shankarnarayana and Durgamba, have been renovated and restored to a better condition. They are also equipped with the facilities and amenities for social welfare activities.

The Derivation of the Name "Nandavar"

The name "Nandavar" is derived from a combination of two words: "Nanda" + "Pura" (Just as "Baana" + "Pura" = "Baanaavara"; "Brahma" + "Pura" = "Brahmaavara"). Since this was the "Pura" (abode) or the kingdom of the Nanda dynasty, this was called as "Nanda Pura", which in due course became "Nandavar".

According to another version, this was called as Nandavar because the kings of the Nanda dynasty had built an enclosure of a wall encircling this town. It is thus clear that here ruled the kings of Nanda dynasty. Even to this day the local people hold that the Nandas were Harijans by caste. They must have been the original inhabitants of this place. Hence it can be said that they were ruling here from the very ancient time, and they were the cause for the name of this place. From our present study, however, it is not possible to say categorically as to when they commenced their rule here.

Nanda Dynasty of North India

The name of the Nanda dynasty can be found in the ancient Indian history. As is well known, with the help of Chanakya, Chandragupta Maurya, the grandfather of the famous Ashoka Chakravarthy, had established his kingdom defeating and exterminating the Nanda kings. It is not known whether a part of the very same Nanda dynasty came down and settled here, and ruled from this place also.

A Perfect Identity between the Two Royal Families

There is a perfect identity between these two royal families. Just as the Nandas who ruled from our Nandavar were Harijans by caste, the Nandas who preceded the Mauryas in North India also did not belong to the first three categories of the "chaturvarna" system. By a study of their tradition, ideology, and food habits, etc. it must be said that they belonged to the fourth category. Hence, besides the similarity in their names, there is also found a social identity between these two dynasties.

Did the Nandas of North India come down to South?

It is quite possible that having lost their royalty and power in North India, the Nandas who were inimical to the Mauryas, might have come down to this part of the South India, and with the background of their previous experience in administration and rulership, might have established themselves here and assumed the reins. The bank of Netravati River with its copious and perennial flow of water might have been found as an ideal place for their kingdom. However, some ancient edicts of North Karnataka bear ample testimony to the rule of the Nanda kings in some parts of west Karnataka. But no evidence as to the names and the number of Nanda kings who had ruled our Nandavar are available. But the fact that they were ruling from here till the 15th century A.D. is clearly known.

Nandapura Becomes Nandavar

Thus, the Nanda kings established their kingdom on the bank of the Netravati River, built a Fort and a palace, and residential quarters for not only the Ministers and the other authorities, but also for the serving staff, the soldiers and the businessmen. Hence this place came to be known as "Nandapura", which in course of time became well known by the present name of "Nandavar".

Bangarasa's Advent at Nandavar

During the 15th century A.D., one early morning at 5 o'clock, Laxmappa Bangaraja the First, who was then ruling from Bangadi of Belthangdi Taluk, in Dakshina Kannada, was traveling to Mangalore by boat, passing the river bank of Nandavar. At that very moment, on a sand dune, at a little distance, to the east of the local Ganapathi Temple, two "Kavada" birds were chirping. The astrologers, who were then accompanying the king, hinted to him that if the "Kavada" birds were to sing at that hour of the dawn, it was an indication of the existence of valuable treasures there and hence that place was very well-suited for building a palace. Accordingly, with the help of one Nandiraja Ballala, hailing from the border of a place known as "Sajeepa", the Banga king built his palace, as stated by Late Ganapathi Rao Aigal in his book entitled, "The History of Dakshina Kannada".

Bangarasa vs. Nandaraya of Nandavar

During the time of construction of his palace here, the Banga king declared war on Nandaraya who was the then ruler of Nandavar. Bereft of support from the local people, and being of low caste from the then standard, none came for the support of Nandaraya. Consequently, he lost his life in the battle, and the public looted his wealth. Hence came into vogue the adage in Kannada, meaning that the "Nandaraya's life had gone to dogs". Thus, ended tragically the Nanda dynasty, and a pall of gloom descended on Nandapura.

The Vicissitudes of Bangarasa

Bangarasa who exterminated the Nanda dynasty and commenced his rule in Nandavar in 1417 A.D., built a tall mud fort around his palace, and erected therein a shrine dedicated to Veerabhadra. But neither Bangarasa nor his successors could rule the kingdom in peace and tranquillity. There used to be frequent skirmishes and battles between him and the neighboring Chowta king and Domba Heggade of Vittal. Due to the repeated murders, loot and decoity indulged in by the aliens and enemies alike, there commenced and prevailed in Nandavar strife and anarchy.

Nandavar became a prey to the Mohammedan Aggression

In 1763, after capturing Bidar, Hyder Ali, the Mohammedan ruler, came down towards Nandavar. Lakshmapparasa Banga the 4th, who was ruling here at that time, received the invading Mohamedan ruler with all honors, and presented him with valuable royal gifts. Nevertheless, within a few years, Nandavar fell a prey to a treacherous aggression and loot by the ungrateful Mohammedan chieftain of Hyder Ali, named Shaik Ali, and was subjected to untold misery, hardships and sufferings. Consequently, drowned in this grief, the Bangarasa breathed his last in 1767 A.D.

The Palace was torched with the King

Subsequently, one Gopala Gowda from the province of Coorg came down to Nandavar in April 1799, and captured the then ruler Kamapparasa the 4th, looted the entire wealth of the palace and torched it along with the king.

Nandavar King's Self-sacrifice for the Country

A highly significant fact that strikes the student of history is that the temple of "Kote Hanumantha" (the present Sri Veera Maruthi Temple of Nandavar, as was popularly known in those days) was the center of inspiration to the earliest Freedom Fighters of Dakshina Kannada. The valiant fighters and participants of the Freedom Movement, assembled near the temple of "Kote Hanumantha" and, fired with the zeal of patriotic fervor, collectively took a decision to fight against the British rulers at the nearby Bantwal and Mangalore, and carried out their plan, though the mighty British rulers in Mangalore executed the king of Nandavar and his companion from Coorg. The Freedom Movement was thus interrupted at the cost of the precious life of the king of Nandavar who did not hesitate to sacrifice it at the altar of the country.

When the Indian Independence Movement was in full swing throughout the Dakshina Kannada District, a person known as Kalyanappa (hailing from the province of Coorg) who initiated a revolt, crossed Sullya and Puttur, (in April 1837) and rushed towards Nandavar. All the participants of the Freedom Movement collectively invited Kalyanappa to Nandavar. Fighters from both the sides assembled near the temple of "Kote Hanumantha", implored Raja Laxmapparasa to join the Freedom Movement, and render all financial assistance for the cause. It was then that was collectively decided to hold the very next day a public meeting and a common feast at the Nandavar palace courtyard, and that thereafter to invade both Bantwal and Mangalore, and to grab the British Treasury.

As narrated by a contemporary poet of Nandavar in his composition, the very next day, fired with immense zeal and emotional fervor of the Freedom Movement, the people of Nandavar, armed themselves with the stems of the coconut leaves and stones, rushed to Bantwal, and killing the British Subhedar there, grabbed the British Treasury. Next, they also grabbed the British Treasury in Mangalore, and torched the British houses there. Coming to know that Kalyanappa and Nandavar Laxmappa Banga were instrumental for the unrest and commotion, the then British rulers of Mangalore declared them as traitors, and in May 1837 hanged them at Bikarnakatte, in Mangalore. Consequently, bereft of the ruling king, Nandavar was once again orphaned and plunged into grief.

The Tragic End of the Nandavar King

Thus when Nandavar was weak on account of the loss of people, wealth as well as the ruling king, Kamaraya the 5th and Laxmapparasa Padmaraja Banga hailing from the same dynasty, assumed the reins of Nandavar. But, somehow, they failed to earn the goodwill of the local people. In 1893 attempts were initiated to drive them away from Nandavar. As a result, the last royal descendant, Laxmapparasa Padmaraja Banga, left Nandavar for good in 1898, went to Bangadi, the capital of his forefathers, and settled there, never to return.

Abdication and the Departure of the Ruling King and the Aftermath

After the departure of the ruling king, the entire immovable property of the Banga dynasty at Nandavar was auctioned and thus got divided, distributed and fragmented. And, in due course, the palace of Bangarasa located on a hillock, half a furlong away and to the east of the present Ganapathi temple of Nandavar, was completely ruined, leaving no trace. The palace courtyard was turned into a paddy field. The three Basadis dedicated to Shantinatha, Vrishbhanatha and Padmavati, were razed to the ground. Today, it is not even possible to identify their exact location. Since the shrine of Veerabhadra became a resort of miscreants, Veerabhadra had to be transferred and entrusted to the authorities of the present Sri Venkataramana Swami College at the nearby Bantwal. The twin forts of Nandavar having been dilapidated and worn out became a grazing ground for animals like goat and sheep. Nandavar, the capital of the wealthy Banga dynasty, which had, at one time, even introduced and brought into currency the gold coins, fell a prey to the cruelty and barbarity of man. Today it looks akin to the legendary "Haalu Hampe" (the desolate capital of Vijayanagara Empire of yore in Karnataka) and is mourned in Tulunadu.

Nandavar Renovated and Rebuilt

Founded in the ancient times, and receiving honor and cooperation from both the ruling kings and the common folk alike, Nandavar, which has seen the vicissitudes and ups and downs, is even to this day a firm resort of faith for the people of devout disposition. Being renovated and rebuilt from time to time by the devotees, Nandavar has grown as a sacred place of the State. Several religious programs such as the reading of the Puranas and other scriptures, Harikatha performances, Bhajan programs as well as the social functions like the sacred thread ceremonies and marriage ceremonies, are taking place, and the people are getting inclined towards the temples here. In this sacred and historic place of Nandavar, dear to the Divine, our sincere efforts to provide all possible facilities and amenities as also the arrangements for the worship of the Divine and the welfare of the people around, are verily our most sacred offering, dedicated service and devout worship to the Most High.

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